I have always loved the strong, earthy flavor of buckwheat. It is treated as a grain, though actually it is a fruit seed, related to rhubarb and sorrel. Hulled buckwheat seeds are called groats, or if roasted, kasha, which is also the name for cooked buckwheat groats. A staple in Eastern European countries, kasha is not particularly popular in the United States, perhaps because of its strong taste but also because the groats we get here are cut small; when cooked, they tend to disintegrate into a mush. This won’t happen if you toast the groats first, then cook them in an oven in heavy earthenware or cast-iron pot. Use one part whole groats, two parts boiling water or stock, and salt to taste. First, stir the buckwheat groats in a lightly oiled pot over medium-high heat until they are dark and toasty, then add the simmering water or stock and salt. Cover and bake in a 350-degree oven for 15 to 20 minutes until the liquid has been absorbed. By far my favorite way to eat buckwheat is in the form of buckwheat noodles, called soba, and as a flour in pancakes and crêpes. As food writer Darra Goldstein has noted, dark buckwheat flour contains four times as much fiber as whole wheat flour and no gluten (however, recipes for noodles and most crêpes and pancakes contain a mixture of wheat flour and buckwheat flour). Buckwheat is also a very good source of manganese and a good source of magnesium, as well as flavonoids like quercetin and rutin. The protein in buckwheat is a complete protein, containing all eight essential amino acids. A Meal in a Bowl: Soba, Smoked Trout and Spinach A small amount of smoked trout contributes a great deal of flavorful protein to this meal, as well as vitamin B12, vitamin B6, niacin and selenium. 6 cups kombu stock (see below), chicken stock or vegetable stock Soy sauce or salt to taste 6 ounces Japanese soba noodles, cooked (see below) and tossed with 2 teaspoons sesame oil or canola oil 1 6-ounce bag baby spinach, rinsed 1/2 pound smoked trout fillets, cut into four 2-ounce pieces 1 bunch scallions, thinly sliced, light and dark green parts kept separate 1. Bring the stock to a simmer. Taste and adjust seasoning, adding soy sauce or salt if desired. If the noodles have been refrigerated, warm them by placing them in a strainer and dipping the strainer into the simmering broth. Then distribute the noodles among four deep soup bowls. Add to the stock the spinach, trout filets and the white and light green parts of the scallions. Cover and turn off the heat. Allow to sit for three minutes. 2. Set a piece of trout on top of the noodles in each bowl. Ladle in the soup, taking care to evenly distribute the spinach and scallions. Sprinkle the dark green part of the scallions over each serving, and serve. Yield: Serves four Advance preparation: The noodles can be cooked ahead and kept in the refrigerator for three days. The stock can also be made a day or two ahead. Cooking Japanese Soba Noodles the Japanese Way Japanese soba noodles are finer and more delicate than the American-made brands that I’ve come across, and this method for cooking them works well. The noodles can be cooked ahead and added to soups, salads and stir-fries, or just eaten as a quick meal. Bring 3 or 4 quarts of water to a boil in a large pot. Add the noodles gradually, so that the water remains at a boil, and stir once with a long-handled spoon or pasta fork so that they don’t stick together. Wait for the water to come back up to a rolling boil — it will bubble up, so don’t fill the pot all the way — and add 1 cup of cold water. Allow the water to come back to a rolling boil, and add another cup of cold water. Allow the water to come to a boil one more time, and add a third cup of water. When the water comes to a boil again, the noodles should be cooked through. Drain and toss with a little sesame or canola oil if not using right away. The noodles can be refrigerated in a plastic bag or in a covered bowl for three days. Kombu Stock This very mild stock is the easiest stock you’ll ever make, made simply by soaking sea kelp (called kombu) in warm water for a day. Kombu is an excellent source of iodine and vitamin K, and a good source of folate, magnesium, iron and calcium. To make kombu stock, wipe 2 ounces kombu with a damp paper towel and place in a large bowl. Add 2 quarts warm water, and soak for six to eight hours or overnight. Remove the kombu from the water and discard (it will be viscous and the stock slightly viscous). Strain and refrigerate until ready to use. Season as desired.