Intoxicated by natural beauty in 'God's Own Country'

In the 25 years since our last visit, South Africa's politics have, thankfully, changed beyond recognition. But I'm delighted to report that, during our absence, the natural beauty of 'God's Own Country' hasn't changed a jot. It was good to be back. Luxurious international hotels may abound, but we were seeking local individuality and style. We began our holiday at the Kapama private game reserve - 300,000 acres nestling in the lee of the Drakensberg Mountains on the edge of the Kruger National Park. With a choice of four sophisticated bush camps, we opted for the newly opened Karula Lodge, set on the banks of the Klaserie river. The seven luxury tents were tempting but we chose one of five chalets - a word that does no justice to their vast but understated indulgence. They include every modern convenience - from indoor and outdoor showers to private plunge pool - yet blend in seamlessly with the tranquillity of the surrounding bush. It would be easy just to wallow in the peace, solitude and superb cuisine at Karula (this is no Bushtucker Trial!) and I heartily recommend the carpaccio of kudu antelope. But we had serious work to do. Kapama boasts all the Big Five (lion, rhino, elephant, leopard and buffalo) and we saw four of them on safari early on our first morning, as well as countless giraffes, zebras, impala, warthogs and exotic birds. Only the leopard evaded us. But we persevered and our patience was rewarded on our final morning, when we found a contented creature a few hours after she had made a kill. Despite the manifold attractions of Karula in general and our palatial quarters in particular, it was impossible to resist the chance to camp out in five-star style. We were driven to a large, raised, roofless platform overlooking a watering hole in time to watch the sun go down, tinting the bush and the Drakensbergs with rich hues of umber and gold. As darkness fell, our dinner of fresh asparagus and braised kingclip fish arrived in the capable hands of Emanuel, who cooked it to perfection in the tiny field kitchen below, before leaving us to enjoy a romantic dessert, cheese and coffee by lamplight. Somewhat incongruously, a simple four-poster bed awaited, mosquito nets rustling in the rising wind, and we clambered in (guess who to windward!) watching the unfamiliar stars of the southern hemisphere and finally falling asleep to the sounds of the bush and the gentle roar of the lions. We were woken at 5am and whisked off for an elephant-back safari; a chance to make close acquaintance with these remarkable animals. Many of the elephants had been saved by the Hoedspruit Endangered Species Centre, located in a corner of the reserve. At the centre, Lente Roode is continuing the work of her father Willie Schurmann, devoting her life to protecting the cheetah and providing a sanctuary for sick animals. Moving on to Cape Town, we berthed comfortably at Winchester Mansions, a delightful Cape Dutch-style hotel overlooking the Atlantic on the expansive Sea Point Promenade, with easy access to the attractions of the city, from the revived Waterfront to Table Mountain. No one should visit Cape Town without taking the short boat ride to Robben Island, Nelson Mandela's prison for 18 years, where you will be guided round the tiny cells and told of the harsh regime by former inmates and guards. I defy anyone not be moved by the suffering endured by Mandela, and the heroic forgiveness he showed on his release and rise to power. On A lighter note, afternoon tea is a very serious business at the Mount Nelson Hotel and an experience to be savoured, as indeed is this historic building which, with its magnificent columned entrance and gardens, retains an air of distant Empire glory. We took a day out for a bracing drive round the Cape Peninsula with its pretty seaside villages, spectacular views, glorious sandy beaches, resident penguin colony and endless places to savour local food and wine. Talking of wine, it was time for some serious research in Stellenbosch, perhaps the capital of South African wine-growing. It is less than an hour's drive from the bustle of the city, yet we could have been a million miles away as we collapsed into the welcoming arms and colonial charms of River Manor, two period houses converted almost imperceptibly into a single hotel where one had the distinct feeling of being guests in a private house. A couple of minutes' walk and we were in the genteel and picturesque centre of Stellenbosch, where I failed to resist an expensive multicoloured ostrich handbag. Later, we enjoyed a superb dinner with friends at The Apprentice, run by the Institute of Culinary Excellence, where trainee chefs practise their skills - it could have been Gordon, Hugh or Marco behind the scenes, such was the standard of both food and presentation. Before leaving the area, a tour of several wineries, in the expert hands of our hotel host's sister-in-law, enabled us to imbibe the landscape in more ways than one. The holiday was almost over but we were determined to see one of the natural wonders of the world at Victoria Falls, straddling Zimbabwe and Zambia. Nothing would persuade us to put money in Mugabe's pocket, so we flew to Livingstone, in Zambia, to stay at Stanley Safari Lodge. We had (unrequested, I assure you) been allocated the honeymoon suite, rush-roofed and open on three sides, with private plunge pool, outdoor shower, sitting area and open fireplace, all blending with the bush, which was literally on our doorstep. We could have been alone at the lodge (in fact six others were staying) as we dined simply but well in the open air, with a direct view of the huge cloud of spume rising from the falls a mile or so away, a Turneresque vision in the glowing red of the setting sun. A similar sight greeted us the following morning from the comfort of our enormous double bed as we sipped tea and anticipated the day ahead. The falls exceeded a lifetime of expectation. The raw power of 300,000 gallons pouring every second into the gorge is quite overwhelming, and hundreds of yards away, as you walk the paths on the other side, the spray engulfs you like a tropical rainstorm. Our day culminated in a sunset cruise along the Zambezi, evoking memories of that Bogart classic The African Queen. Many of the staff at Stanley Safari Lodge live in nearby Mukuni Chiefdom, a traditional mud-hut village that welcomes visitors but is genuine and not a tourist trap. Here, you can experience both the poverty and pride of Africa. They have very little indeed, and it was an easy decision to donate some modest equipment and supplies to their primitive medical centre via The Butterfly Tree, a UK charity that aids the impoverished villagers. It was a sobering but fascinating end to a perfect holiday.